29th May

Enjoyed the all inclusive breakfast at the hotel and then arranged to hire bikes for the day.  Very European in style, not quite what we are used to but we managed them and generally stayed on the right (not left) side of the road.  Actually the town is really well set up for bikes with trails all over both the old and new sections.  We thoroughly enjoyed touring along the entire wall with stops to visit places of interest.  The Palazzo Pfanner was once the family home of a well respected doctor; there are displays of his instruments which make you very glad not to have been a patient in the 18^th century.  Strolled through the lovely gardens both here and later at the shady Botanic Gardens where there are over 700 plants of medicinal value on display. Found another little sidewalk trattoria for lunch then rode the city walls in the opposite direction just because we enjoyed it so much.   Spent the afternoon updating the blog because at last we had internet connection and then had dinner where all the locals were dining just around the corner.  Enjoyed pasta with mushroom and veal with mushroom. Molto bene.   Our last night in Tuscany.

31st May

Apparently in the earliest days this remote area was inhabited by a few hilltop villages connected only by paths. The people were ruled by Genoa rather than Italy and hung on despite wars, plagues and the harshest of nature’s ways including wild seas that they were afraid of. Over the years they have increased the arable land by creating close drystone terraces, almost 7000kms of them, down the hillsides.   You have to be impressed by how these people collaboratively worked to create a system that everyone could take advantage of rather than being selfish and just looking after their own plots.  It was a hard life though with landslides quite common and wild seas with poor harbours, not to mention raids by pirates.  Back in the 90s, through lack of population, and lack of interest in hard work, the terraces began to fail under pressure from the environment and the native scrub moving back in. The National Park was established in 1999 with the goals to stop degradation, provide protection for villagers against danger of landslides and re-establish the region as a winegrowing one.  A careful balance between the natural environment and the archaeological value of the built terracing has been achieved.

This morning we headed out to walk the Manarola-Corniglia trail that follows the coast, short but quite difficult, but we discovered the track has been closed due to landslides so we took on the more adventurous trekking trail across the hills.  About 2 hrs later we arrived in Corniglia and took a rest and had lunch.  It was a pretty tough hike and not one to move like a mountain gazelle, but more like a heffalump with a limp, very pleased with myself for getting to the end in good shape.  So good in fact that we then took the train to Riomaggiore and walked the easy coast trail home.  One very notable good decision we have made is to not stay in Corniglia where the track from the station to the village climbs steeply over steps that switchback up the side of the cliff.  We can’t imagine how people manage to haul luggage up there. 

30th May

After breakfast took a taxi to the station and train to Pisa.  Deposited our bags at the station and walked to the Piazza del Miracoli to once again marvel at the Leaning Tower, an archaeological project gone wrong, but making a name (and dollar) for itself.  Wandered around this, the Cathedral and Baptistry but decided not o wait the extra hr to climb it once more.  No doubt the views will be much the same.  It is nice to see it all without the scaffolding that was present in 1986.   After lunch caught the train on to La Spezia which passes through Carrara, famous for its white marble, favoured by Michelangelo and other sculptors.  At first you think you are passing snowfields but as you draw closer you realise you are seeing fields of marble in vast quarries.   Finally we get the connection to Manarola, one of the 5 villages that make up Cinque Terra.  That last leg is only 12 minutes long and you do about 10 of it in one long tunnel and then emerge with sheer rock cliffs on the right and the aquamarine Ligurian Sea to the left.  A collective audible sigh is heard as everyone in the carriage is awestruck. 

My god the paths here are steep, the mountains just fall into the sea and the houses in the village are all built as if leaning into the cliffs and holding each other up.  They are connected by little pathways.  After all the stairs up and down train platforms today I have now had enough.  Found Da Paulin apartment, absolutely gorgeous with balcony just perfect for sunset overlooking the sea.   After a short rest we walked out to the point then got a few supplies for dinner and breakfast. Max-ed out the pedometer at just under 18,000 steps today, most of them up or down what’s more, but it is going to be more of the same for the next 4 days I can see. Enjoyed a beer at the bar closest to the waterfront just before sunset and then went home to share olives and cheese on our balcony. Eric cooked chicken with fennel and rice tonight, already we have decided on fresh seafood at the local tomorrow night. We note that corks are still the norm for wine bottles in Italy.  The local drop here is made by a collective of all the little vines along the terraces, another of the ways UNESCO and the National Park are maintaining the culture and lifestyle of the area. 

28th May

Here we are in Lucca.  We think this was a good change of plans as the place looks interesting and we were ready to move on.  I’m online at last and Eric is watching’ Italy’s Got Talent’ on the tv.  First time we’ve turned the tv on since we left Darwin.  This morning Nonna rang Tony and he returned to La Grotta to sort out our account. No trouble there, just the maths a bit difficult for him at first but we got there in the end with Eric being very patient, meanwhile our bus went past and we had to settle for one an hour later but hey, we’re on Italian time and this is our last hour in La Grotta’s courtyard.  I did ask Tony about the farm animals and I think he told me that it is all too inconvenient these days for the small landowners and so all the milk and meat production is taken care of by big companies and they are not in this area.  Caught the train to Florence and the connection to Lucca.  Chatted with a couple of women from NZ and then students; one from Kuching via Melbourne, Texas and Brussels, another from Bologna who is soon to continue his studies in Finland.  What a life these guys have in front of them.  Mind you we are feeling pretty content with ours. In Lucca we found our hotel and then made our way our out onto the street to investigate the old town.  We spent the afternoon browsing and then shared a drink in the piazza before heading back for dinner, the crowds in town were growing rather than thinning.  Have I mentioned how suitable a bidet is for hand washing clothes on the go?  Fabulous design.

27 May

On our way to the bus this morning we note the return of the little Alpha.  Eric can have that discussion this afternoon.  What’s the worst thing that can happen to your pedometer when you lower your pants to go to the toilet?  Yep, mine ended up underwater and its finito!  Have to trust Eric to tell me when we’ve reached 10,000 steps a day, that’s the goal you see.  Most days getting pretty close or well over.   Decided to post home our Tuscan shopping so visited the post office and managed with some difficulty (actually lots) to get the box sent.  Only 3 kg, but pretty bulky with 2 handbags inside.  Instead of going directly into the old town today we headed to an outlook near the old fort and then went into the Basilica Santa Caterina.  In contrast to the ornate cathedral, this place of worship is quite Spartan but it did have a lovely welcoming feel with the flags of all the different councils on display. Had a lovely lunch on a cafe balcony overlooking the old city.   Walked to Il Campo for a last visit and wrote a final postcard from here.  When we first aligned ourselves with a contrade, or district, which competes in the Il Palio we were inclined towards the Dragons but since learning that both my knee specialist and Tony of La Grotta support the snails we now follow them.  Eric is now definitely ahead of me in the shopping with a second pair of shoes to his credit.  No Antonio when we get home but we are assured he will be there in the morning.

26 May

Went straight to the Siena and the Museo Civico in Il Campo and browsed the frescoes and memorabilia from 1600’s on.  We were amazed, particularly by the paintings of liberation by Emmanuel Vittorio on the ceilings in the more modern section.  Very apparent how much influence the church had on all things that these days would be decided by the local council.  Explored the streets we hadn’t yet ventured down.  You could walk any street and be intrigued by the architecture.   Managed to get a wi-fi connection for a short time in the Irish Pub but then my phone started playing up.  On Eric’s connection we booked a hotel for 2 nights in Lucca.  Now we have to explain to La Grotta that we are leaving 2 days early, with Tony still not back that may take some charades!  Ah, not so bad, Tony returns tomorrow!

25 May

Today we had a very slow start to the day, a late breakfast and then caught the bus to Siena for the local produce market.  Saw some amazing offerings of spit roasted pig and fresh fish along with fresh vegies and bread in every shape imaginable.  The tomatoes here have amazing flavour.  Also all the usual clothes, shoes and kitchenware. The new season's colour is green, not quite bottle green but close, more window-shutter green.  Managed to resist all but one blouse and then had to buy matching glass jewellery and handbag in the shopping centre!  Not such a bargain after all.  We found just the bird book we have been looking for today so now we can start identifying all the ones we’ve been seeing around La Grotta. At last I have configured my phone for internet and MMS and Eric has found the mix he needs for Porccini risotto so a good day.  The kitchen smells divinely of rosemary on our return.  We take a walk across the farm identifying birds.

24th May

Got up early and took the Bus Rapide to Firenze. Love the fact that the bus stops just at our doorstep.  The traffic in Florence was appalling and we even managed to collect one car on the front of our vehicle at a roundabout!  Just a little ding.  From the bus terminal it’s just a short walk to the Duomo but the crowds there were massive and we didn’t stay long or consider going inside this time. A short diversion into the leather market meant we carried home a new belt, bag and wallet.  Moved on to the Ponte Vecchio but once again the crowds were too much for us so we found a quite Trattoria for a late lunch and then left David to his masses and made our way home to La Grotta for lamb and potato baked with rosemary from the garden.  Nona only too happy to share the garden produce including about a kg of fresh cherries.  One thing intrigues me about Tuscany – where are all the cows and sheep and horses? We’ve seen heaps of productive fields but no animals. They can’t all be in barns, or are they?  We’ve decided we would like to spend some time in Lucca and since it is on the way to Cinque Terra we might cut this stay a few days short and head there on Friday.  But Antonio and his girlfriend left in the red Alpha Romeo convertible and have been gone for 3 days now.  We don’t know when they’ll be back and how to change our booking if we want to do this.  Did I mention we were fined Euro 5 today for travelling on the train with an un-validated ticket?  Oops! 

23 May

Took the bus to San Gimignano today, via Pogginbossi (love that name), about an hr from Siena.  This hilltop town also once rivalled Florence for nobility and power and had 72 towers to show it.  Only 14 of those remain in tack today. This is really hilly, how the tiny little 3 wheeler vans make it around town amazes me. They sound like lawn mowers!  From the Piazza della Cisterna in the centre of town we wandered all over and browsed the shops.  Bought a set of condimrnt bottles typical of Tuscan design as a momento of the region.  Lots of cyclists in town, they must be keen because it is extremely hilly around here.  We found a shady garden at one stage and to our delight a cellist was just setting up and she entertained us with chamber music before we moved on.  Visited an amazing archaeological museum with a display of bottles and ceramics from as long ago as 16^th century.  Some still have remains of herbs and minerals in them from an original pharmacy.  The combined knowledge in huge manuscripts was amazing.  Back at La Grotta I managed to put a load of washing on with Nona’s help and lots of charades.  Whatever she put in the soap dispenser must have been strong because as I hung it out later I found that all our whites are now a nice shade of blue! Eric cooked up another pasta and pancetta dish to follow the soup.

22 May

Sunday morning, church bells are chiming in the morning sunshine and we have to wait until 10:50 to get a bus to Siena.  Sat in the sunshine and chatted with other guests; one from Mt Tambourine Qld, another from Chartres, France.  In Siena we started with lunch then made our way to the cathedral, an amazing gothic structure of muti-coloured marble; white red and green at the entrance and gables, black and white stripes for the walls and pillars.  The floor is covered with marble mosaics and panels that depict the stories of the day.   This cathedral took about 200 yrs to complete after starting in 1196.  Time to climb the imposing bell tower in Il Campo, Torre del Mangia, all 400 steps to view the city and countryside from this vantage point.  Met a couple from the Cayman Islands at one point and shared travel stories. Knee held up well so sent a text to my orthopaedic surgeon so he too could share the joy.  Celebrated with more gelato!  Collected some groceries on the way home, sent a few postcards and enjoyed the last of the day’s sunshine in the courtyard while the minestrone cooked.