domenica 29 maggio 2011

21 May

Had a lovely lay-in this morning and then caught the bus to Siena, about 20mins.  Noted that for the whole journey there was not one pedestrian mad enough to walk on the road.  What an amazing place this is. Listed by UNESCO for its cultural and architectural significance every corner you turn is another photo opportunity.  It has always been in a battle with Florence for supremacy and in the 13th century when the aggreessors couldn’t penetrate the walls of this city they used the unusual tactic of catapulting dung and dead goat flesh over the walls in the hope that the plague would wipe out the population.  Wandered the streets and had pizza and chianti/beer for lunch followed by gelati in the afternoon.  You can just sit here and watch the people walk by marvelling at the ancient structures that surround you.  The weather has been just beautiful all day and we spent the late afternoon in the courtyard back home before dinner at our restaurant.  The dining room seats 10 comfortably and all tables were full with guests. A carafe of vino rossi was set on each of the tables.  Antipasto including bruschetta was followed by spinach and ricotta ravioli, then roast potato and beef followed by apple sponge dusted with chocolate.  Euro20 ea.  The entertainment was provided for free when 2 more large groups of guests arrived (at least 20) and they rearranged seating in a second dining room and also outside on the lawns.  We strolled home along the driveway lit only by the stars and masses of fireflies in the gully.



20th May

After breakfast walked the couple of blocks to Rome Termini for our train to Sienna.  Why is it that the only train on the information board without a platform listed is ours?  Never mind, we’ve got plenty of time and we aren’t the only ones bemused.  When it eventually makes it to the top of the list for departures and with only 5 mins to go, it at last gets allocated.  Obviously looking stricken with doubt about where to stand on the platform for our allocated seats, I am approached by a helpful chap who indicates he will show me - and then promptly takes off with my suitcase into the throng of travellers.  If I was looking worried a minute ago I am now in a panic and take off after him hoping Eric will find me eventually.  To my great relief we are all reunited in the correct carriage for the journey as the train pulls out.  Only Euro 5 lighter!  My nerves are quickly relaxed by the rhythmic motion of the train, living in the NT I’d forgotten how much I enjoy this mode of travel.  Typical of any city I’ve moved through on a train, Rome looks pretty dilapidated along the tracks.  The only bit of cheer is all the wild poppies that seem to sprout and bloom in every crack and fissure.  It’s a fast train and once we leave Rome behind the view out the window alternates between rolling green hillsides dotted with villas, small villages or we are plunged into tunnels of darkness where the pressure in our sinuses is a little uncomfortable.

At Chuisi-Chiancano we changed from the train to a bus and arrived at the terminal on the outskirts of Siena at lunchtime.  After a quick bite to eat and a few essential groceries we caught a taxi to La Grotta di Montecchino, our home for the next few days.  The owner was a bit bemused that we didn’t have our own car and changed our room to one at the homestead near the road and bus stop rather than in the quarters about 600m down the track where the shared dining room and swimming pool are located.  He let Mama show us to our room, and with no English she managed to explain how not to lock ourselves out of the room when we are enjoying the sunny courtyard, at least I think that’s what she said.  We settled in to our quaint apartment and then decided to take the bus to the local village.

Since the timetable told us the next bus wasn’t due for another 20mins, and the trip is only 2 kms, we made the decision to walk, having sat so much already today.  This turned out to be a bit rash as the roads in Italy have no shoulders, there are no footpaths even in the villages, and the traffic moves at alarming speed when you are sharing the same space.  We hadn’t gone far at all before realizing how perilous the decision was.  But we got there safely and found the supermarket for supplies for dinner and evening drinks. We had to wait out a thunder storm under the awning of the local bar before making our way back to the bus stop.  In the meantime we’d missed the bus. If we waited for the next one it would be getting dark and, not sure we’ll find our stop, we made the treacherous walk back lugging all the groceries!  We shared a pre-dinner drink in the now not so sunny courtyard and then Eric made a wonderful dinner inspired by the locality – pasta!




giovedì 19 maggio 2011

19th May

After may hrs of sleep we were woken by the delivery of continental breakfast to our room at 8am.  'Rome in a Day', what to do first?  Since we are so close to the Central train station we head there to book tickets to Sienna tomorrow.  We emerged 2 hrs later with train rather than bus tickets to Florence, as planned, but that's all good. The final leg to Sienna is by bus.  Had used the self serve and found it pretty easy to follow in Italian but the final message was something like "there was a payment error, you  have not been charged" so Eric then stood very patiently in a huge queue of foreigners at the Information Counter.  Per Favor!
It's now 11 am so our 'Rome in a Day' has been cut to just over half.  I'm prepared to cut half the ruins out but Eric insists he sees them all and I should too.  My knee is complaining after the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill so we stop for lunch and bierre by Vittorio Emanuelle monument.  Shortcuts are out of the question so on to the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain (where the crowds are 10 deep) and finally the Spanish Steps.  Caught the Metro home with just a short detour to a sidewalk cafe for refreshing bierre and then strolled through the park to our hotel.  Problem is we can't find a public toilet anywhere, so have to keep going into bars for a bierre and using theirs!




Went around the corner to a restaurant for dinner, chose not to have pasta this time.  Specialty of the house was veal and mushroom which was lovely served on the sidewalk as we watched the sun set on Santa Maria Magglore.

18 May

Ahh Roma. After all those hrs of flying (24+) it's good to be here. 


Hotel Maikol, a family owned B&B,  is 2 blocks from Termina Station, but it took us about 6 blocks to find it.  If we haden't been so tired, the walk around Piazza del Vittorio Imanuelle would have revealed a peaceful, green interlude in a hustling, bustling city but from where we were looking it just seemed to be another peice in the mystery jigsaw that is supposed to match the map. Not!  We walked past the door twice before we eventually found the name plate.  And then the lift wasn't working so we had to haul the suitcases up 2 flights (81 steps).  When the girl at reception said it had broken down that morning I didn't believe her.  A short rest and then dinner at a recommended local restaurant.