28th May

Here we are in Lucca.  We think this was a good change of plans as the place looks interesting and we were ready to move on.  I’m online at last and Eric is watching’ Italy’s Got Talent’ on the tv.  First time we’ve turned the tv on since we left Darwin.  This morning Nonna rang Tony and he returned to La Grotta to sort out our account. No trouble there, just the maths a bit difficult for him at first but we got there in the end with Eric being very patient, meanwhile our bus went past and we had to settle for one an hour later but hey, we’re on Italian time and this is our last hour in La Grotta’s courtyard.  I did ask Tony about the farm animals and I think he told me that it is all too inconvenient these days for the small landowners and so all the milk and meat production is taken care of by big companies and they are not in this area.  Caught the train to Florence and the connection to Lucca.  Chatted with a couple of women from NZ and then students; one from Kuching via Melbourne, Texas and Brussels, another from Bologna who is soon to continue his studies in Finland.  What a life these guys have in front of them.  Mind you we are feeling pretty content with ours. In Lucca we found our hotel and then made our way our out onto the street to investigate the old town.  We spent the afternoon browsing and then shared a drink in the piazza before heading back for dinner, the crowds in town were growing rather than thinning.  Have I mentioned how suitable a bidet is for hand washing clothes on the go?  Fabulous design.

27 May

On our way to the bus this morning we note the return of the little Alpha.  Eric can have that discussion this afternoon.  What’s the worst thing that can happen to your pedometer when you lower your pants to go to the toilet?  Yep, mine ended up underwater and its finito!  Have to trust Eric to tell me when we’ve reached 10,000 steps a day, that’s the goal you see.  Most days getting pretty close or well over.   Decided to post home our Tuscan shopping so visited the post office and managed with some difficulty (actually lots) to get the box sent.  Only 3 kg, but pretty bulky with 2 handbags inside.  Instead of going directly into the old town today we headed to an outlook near the old fort and then went into the Basilica Santa Caterina.  In contrast to the ornate cathedral, this place of worship is quite Spartan but it did have a lovely welcoming feel with the flags of all the different councils on display. Had a lovely lunch on a cafe balcony overlooking the old city.   Walked to Il Campo for a last visit and wrote a final postcard from here.  When we first aligned ourselves with a contrade, or district, which competes in the Il Palio we were inclined towards the Dragons but since learning that both my knee specialist and Tony of La Grotta support the snails we now follow them.  Eric is now definitely ahead of me in the shopping with a second pair of shoes to his credit.  No Antonio when we get home but we are assured he will be there in the morning.

26 May

Went straight to the Siena and the Museo Civico in Il Campo and browsed the frescoes and memorabilia from 1600’s on.  We were amazed, particularly by the paintings of liberation by Emmanuel Vittorio on the ceilings in the more modern section.  Very apparent how much influence the church had on all things that these days would be decided by the local council.  Explored the streets we hadn’t yet ventured down.  You could walk any street and be intrigued by the architecture.   Managed to get a wi-fi connection for a short time in the Irish Pub but then my phone started playing up.  On Eric’s connection we booked a hotel for 2 nights in Lucca.  Now we have to explain to La Grotta that we are leaving 2 days early, with Tony still not back that may take some charades!  Ah, not so bad, Tony returns tomorrow!

25 May

Today we had a very slow start to the day, a late breakfast and then caught the bus to Siena for the local produce market.  Saw some amazing offerings of spit roasted pig and fresh fish along with fresh vegies and bread in every shape imaginable.  The tomatoes here have amazing flavour.  Also all the usual clothes, shoes and kitchenware. The new season's colour is green, not quite bottle green but close, more window-shutter green.  Managed to resist all but one blouse and then had to buy matching glass jewellery and handbag in the shopping centre!  Not such a bargain after all.  We found just the bird book we have been looking for today so now we can start identifying all the ones we’ve been seeing around La Grotta. At last I have configured my phone for internet and MMS and Eric has found the mix he needs for Porccini risotto so a good day.  The kitchen smells divinely of rosemary on our return.  We take a walk across the farm identifying birds.

24th May

Got up early and took the Bus Rapide to Firenze. Love the fact that the bus stops just at our doorstep.  The traffic in Florence was appalling and we even managed to collect one car on the front of our vehicle at a roundabout!  Just a little ding.  From the bus terminal it’s just a short walk to the Duomo but the crowds there were massive and we didn’t stay long or consider going inside this time. A short diversion into the leather market meant we carried home a new belt, bag and wallet.  Moved on to the Ponte Vecchio but once again the crowds were too much for us so we found a quite Trattoria for a late lunch and then left David to his masses and made our way home to La Grotta for lamb and potato baked with rosemary from the garden.  Nona only too happy to share the garden produce including about a kg of fresh cherries.  One thing intrigues me about Tuscany – where are all the cows and sheep and horses? We’ve seen heaps of productive fields but no animals. They can’t all be in barns, or are they?  We’ve decided we would like to spend some time in Lucca and since it is on the way to Cinque Terra we might cut this stay a few days short and head there on Friday.  But Antonio and his girlfriend left in the red Alpha Romeo convertible and have been gone for 3 days now.  We don’t know when they’ll be back and how to change our booking if we want to do this.  Did I mention we were fined Euro 5 today for travelling on the train with an un-validated ticket?  Oops! 

23 May

Took the bus to San Gimignano today, via Pogginbossi (love that name), about an hr from Siena.  This hilltop town also once rivalled Florence for nobility and power and had 72 towers to show it.  Only 14 of those remain in tack today. This is really hilly, how the tiny little 3 wheeler vans make it around town amazes me. They sound like lawn mowers!  From the Piazza della Cisterna in the centre of town we wandered all over and browsed the shops.  Bought a set of condimrnt bottles typical of Tuscan design as a momento of the region.  Lots of cyclists in town, they must be keen because it is extremely hilly around here.  We found a shady garden at one stage and to our delight a cellist was just setting up and she entertained us with chamber music before we moved on.  Visited an amazing archaeological museum with a display of bottles and ceramics from as long ago as 16^th century.  Some still have remains of herbs and minerals in them from an original pharmacy.  The combined knowledge in huge manuscripts was amazing.  Back at La Grotta I managed to put a load of washing on with Nona’s help and lots of charades.  Whatever she put in the soap dispenser must have been strong because as I hung it out later I found that all our whites are now a nice shade of blue! Eric cooked up another pasta and pancetta dish to follow the soup.

22 May

Sunday morning, church bells are chiming in the morning sunshine and we have to wait until 10:50 to get a bus to Siena.  Sat in the sunshine and chatted with other guests; one from Mt Tambourine Qld, another from Chartres, France.  In Siena we started with lunch then made our way to the cathedral, an amazing gothic structure of muti-coloured marble; white red and green at the entrance and gables, black and white stripes for the walls and pillars.  The floor is covered with marble mosaics and panels that depict the stories of the day.   This cathedral took about 200 yrs to complete after starting in 1196.  Time to climb the imposing bell tower in Il Campo, Torre del Mangia, all 400 steps to view the city and countryside from this vantage point.  Met a couple from the Cayman Islands at one point and shared travel stories. Knee held up well so sent a text to my orthopaedic surgeon so he too could share the joy.  Celebrated with more gelato!  Collected some groceries on the way home, sent a few postcards and enjoyed the last of the day’s sunshine in the courtyard while the minestrone cooked.